Image from “Development of the ETO Field Jacket”, the Littlejohn Collection.
Based off of Combat Lessons, Rank and File In Combat: What They’re Doing, How They Do It series from World War II, this series will offer guides for reenactors for fairly common problems. The topics are drawn from questions that we have received, mostly from new reenactors, over the years. This one will examine how ‘Jacket, Field, Wool, OD’ should fit.
When initially adopted soldiers either wore the size they were issued in the Service Coat or were going down a size in order to make the baggy “field jacket” look better as the dress jacket it was mostly being used as. It would not be until Headquarters, U.S. Forces, European Theater Circular 121 Fitting and Issue of Wool Field Jacket dated September 5, 1945, when that would change. After that, when one was issued an OD Wool Field Jacket, one was to be issued one a size larger than one’s chest size. This turned an already baggy and oversized jacket into an even larger one.
In this guide, we will illustrate the fit of the ‘Ike’ Jacket when “properly” sized according to the Army as well as how it should fit when wearing your service coat chest size as well as sizing down a size for a slimmer fit. Most men, save until late 1945-1946, appear to be wearing the OD Wool Field Jackets in either their chest size or a size down. Unless doing a particularly late occupation or demobilization impression, that is how we recommend you wear your OD Wool Field Jacket.
What you will need:
-A Tailor’s Tape
-Drawers, Cotton, Shorts & Undershirt, Cotton, Summer Sleeveless
-Drawers & Undershirt, Wool
-Shirt, Flannel, OD, Coat Style
-Trousers, Wool, Serge, OD
-A Friend
Step 1:
The individual when being measured should be wearing Drawers, Cotton, Shorts & Undershirt, Cotton, Summer Sleeveless; Drawers & Undershirt, Wool; Shirt, Flannel, OD, Coat Style; and Trousers, Wool, Serge, OD. In this case he is wearing the late war variants of the Flannel Shirt and Wool Serge Trousers. For information on how those were fitted, see our article on the fitting of the service uniform.
Step 2:
The individual to be fitted should stand in a natural manner while his chest is measured with a tape well up under the arms across the largest part of the chest. Approximately 1 inch over the snug measurement should be allowed. The length of coat: short, regular, long, or extra long required for the induvial being fitted should be selected according to his height.
Generally:
-Under ~5’6”: Short
-Between ~5’6”-6”-Regular
-Over 6”: Long
Generally an individual’s Overcoat size is the same as their size for the OD Wool Field Jacket Jacket.
Note 1: “Recent fitting tests, made by The Quartermaster General, have indicated that the same sizes required for individuals in the olive drab wool overcoat will normally be required in the jacket and that the proper size of the jacket is two sizes larger than the individual’s chest measurement (a 34” chest measurement requires size 36 jacket)”.
Step 3:
The OD Wool Field Field Jacket should be tried on over the cotton and woolen underwear, the wool shirt and trousers. The field jacket should be tried on and should be buttoned in front and pulled down in order that the collar will fit snugly at the back and in front.
Note 1: “Recent fitting tests, made by The Quartermaster General, have indicated that the same sizes required for individuals in the olive drab wool overcoat will normally be required in the jacket and that the proper size of the jacket is two sizes larger than the individual’s chest measurement (a 34” chest measurement requires size 36 jacket)”.
Step 4A:
The OD Wool Field Jacket’s fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(a) Width-The jacket will be sufficiently large to permit, at all times, freedom of action and unrestricted movement of the arms and shoulders.
Note 1: “Recent fitting tests, made by The Quartermaster General, have indicated that the same sizes required for individuals in the olive drab wool overcoat will normally be required in the jacket and that the proper size of the jacket is two sizes larger than the individual’s chest measurement (a 34” chest measurement requires size 36 jacket)”.
Step 4B(1):
(b) Length-It is of the utmost importance that the jacket reach at least a point midway between the top and bottom of the side pockets of the trousers when worn in a normal position. It should extend approximately three to five inches below the hip bone of the wearer, according to his height.
Note 1: “Recent fitting tests, made by The Quartermaster General, have indicated that the same sizes required for individuals in the olive drab wool overcoat will normally be required in the jacket and that the proper size of the jacket is two sizes larger than the individual’s chest measurement (a 34” chest measurement requires size 36 jacket)”.
Step 4B(2)
(b) Length-It should be worn in such a manner as not to expose the top of the trousers when the arms are raised or extended.
Note 1: “Recent fitting tests, made by The Quartermaster General, have indicated that the same sizes required for individuals in the olive drab wool overcoat will normally be required in the jacket and that the proper size of the jacket is two sizes larger than the individual’s chest measurement (a 34” chest measurement requires size 36 jacket)”.
Step 4B(3):
(b) Length-It should be worn in such a manner as not to expose the top of the trousers when the wearer bends or leans in a forward position.
Note 1: “Recent fitting tests, made by The Quartermaster General, have indicated that the same sizes required for individuals in the olive drab wool overcoat will normally be required in the jacket and that the proper size of the jacket is two sizes larger than the individual’s chest measurement (a 34” chest measurement requires size 36 jacket)”.
Step 4C:
(c) Sleeve Length- The sleeves of the jacket should extend to a point approximately three inches from the ends of the thumbs. Buttons are provided on the cuffs for length adjustment when necessary.
Note 1: “Recent fitting tests, made by The Quartermaster General, have indicated that the same sizes required for individuals in the olive drab wool overcoat will normally be required in the jacket and that the proper size of the jacket is two sizes larger than the individual’s chest measurement (a 34” chest measurement requires size 36 jacket)”.
Note 2A(1):
Prior to U.S. Forces, European Theater Circular 121 “Fitting and Issue of Wool Field Jacket” dated September 5, 1945, soldiers wore their jackets either in standard “service coat” chest size or sized down a chest size in order to achieve a slimmer look.
This is in the standard Service Coat chest size.
Note 2A(2):
Prior to U.S. Forces, European Theater Circular 121 “Fitting and Issue of Wool Field Jacket” dated September 5, 1945, soldiers wore their jackets either in standard “service coat” chest size or sized down a chest size in order to achieve a slimmer look.
This is in the standard Service Coat chest size.
Note 2B(1):
Prior to U.S. Forces, European Theater Circular 121 “Fitting and Issue of Wool Field Jacket” dated September 5, 1945, soldiers wore their jackets either in standard “service coat” chest size or sized down a chest size in order to achieve a slimmer look.
This is in one chest size smaller.
Note 2B(2):
Prior to U.S. Forces, European Theater Circular 121 “Fitting and Issue of Wool Field Jacket” dated September 5, 1945, soldiers wore their jackets either in standard “service coat” chest size or sized down a chest size in order to achieve a slimmer look.
This is in one chest size smaller.
Note 3A:
Note 3: With both the standard chest size and oversized OD Wool Field Jacket, a 5-button sweater fits comfortably underneath.
This is the Service Coat Chest Size.
Note 3B:
Note 3: With both the standard chest size and oversized OD Wool Field Jacket, a 5-button sweater fits comfortably underneath.
This is sized according to U.S. Forces, European Theater Circular 121 “Fitting and Issue of Wool Field Jacket” dated September 5, 1945.
Final:
Now you are ready to strut from the streets of Germany, on occupation, or your home town, as a newly demobilized ‘GI’.