“Fort Belvoir, Va. Sept. 1942. All George Camblair’s sizes are recorded at the clothing warehouse.”
Based off of Combat Lessons, Rank and File In Combat: What They’re Doing, How They Do It series from World War II, this series will offer guides for reenactors for fairly common problems. The topics are drawn from questions that we have received, mostly from new reenactors, over the years. This one will examine how the Service Uniform should fit.
During World War II the US Army tried its best to ensure that the uniforms issued to its soldiers fit. To this end, the US Army regularly stocked 28 sizes of service coats; 18 sizes of field jackets, 17 sizes of overcoats, 22 sizes of shirts, and 30 sizes of trousers in its standard tariffs. It further had other sizes in its oversize tariffs as well would custom make outsize clothing as needed. On top of all of that, it would pay for any needed alterations that the soldier needed to the uniform. This offering of a wide variety of sizes worked with war-time polling finding that 80% of soldiers polled being happy with the fit of their uniforms.
The key parts of the Service Uniform are: the Overcoat; Coat, Wool; Trousers; and Shirt. We will be starting with these garments as they serve as a starting point to explain the fit of other Army garments like the M-1943 Field Jacket or the Wool Field “Ike” Jacket. As our guide, we will be using AR 850-126 Miscellaneous: Fitting of Clothing dated July 23, 1942, with changes.
While not every soldier’s uniform fit exactly like this, with examples being found of soldiers wearing uniforms too large or small, most appear to have worn uniforms that fit within the regulations. Hopefully by the end of this guide, one has an idea of how their uniform should fit.
All uniforms used in this guide are originals.
What You Will Need
-A Tailor’s Tape
-A Yardstick
-A Friend
-Drawers, Cotton, Shorts & Undershirt, Cotton, Summer Sleeveless (note, reproductions)
-Socks, Wool, Light
-Shoes, Service
-Drawers & Undershirt, Wool (Optional)
Step 1
The individual being fitted should be wearing Drawers, Cotton, Shorts & Undershirt, Cotton, Summer Sleeveless as well as, if possible, Drawers & Undershirt, Wool. That will ensure that those garments fit properly underneath the various parts of the Service Uniform. If taking measurements for and trying on garments for Trousers, Cotton, Khaki and Shirt, Cotton, Khaki then Drawers & Undershirt, Wool should not be worn.
Step 2A
The Measurements for the shirt should be done as follows:
-The measurement for collar size is taken by placing the tape around the middle of the neck, and reading the actual measurement. One to 1 ½ inches is added to this snug measurement in the determination of the collar size.
Step 2B
The Measurements for the shirt should be done as follows:
-The length of the sleeve is determined by measuring the individual from the back center of the neck over the shoulders down the arm to the wristbone.
Step 3
The Shirt should be tried on fully buttoned, including the sleeves.
Step 4A
The shirt’s fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(a) Collar-The collar should fit closely enough for neat appearance, but not so snugly as to be uncomfortable
Step 4B
The shirt’s fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(b) Width-The shirt must be sufficiently large across the chest and shoulders to permit free use of the arms without discomfort.
Step 4C
The shirt’s fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(c) Sleeve Length- The sleeve should reach the wristbone.
Step 5A
The measurements for the trousers should be done as follows:
-The waist measurement should be taken with the tape at the point just above the hipbone around the actual waistline. The individual must stand naturally for this measurement without abnormal change in the stomach position.
Step 5B
-The inseam length should be measured from the crotch to a point 1 inch from the top of the heel of the shoes.
Step 6
The trousers should be tried on over Drawers, Cotton, Shorts & Undershirt, Cotton, Summer Sleeveless; Drawers & Undershirt, Wool; as wells as the Wool Shirt. The trousers tried on fully buttoned.
Step 7A
The trousers fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(a) Waist- The waist should fit closely enough to have a neat appearance, but not so snugly as to be uncomfortable.
Step 7B(1)
The trousers fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(b) Seat- There should sufficient room in the seat so that the individual can squat on his heels without discomfort.
Step 7B(2)
The trousers fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(b) Seat- There should sufficient room in the seat so that the individual can squat on his heels without discomfort.
Step 7(C)
The trousers fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(c) Length- Trousers should extend approximately 1 inch above the top of the heel of the shoe.
Step 8
The measurements for Coat, Wool should be done as follows:
-The individual to be fitted should stand in a natural manner while his chest is measured with a tape well up under the arms across the largest part of the chest. Approximately 1 inch over the snug measurement should be allowed. The length of coat: short, regular, long, or extra long required for the induvial being fitted should be selected according to his height.
Generally:
-Under ~5’6”: Short
-Between ~5’6”-6”-Regular
-Over 6”: Long
Step 9
The coat should be tried on and should be buttoned in front and pulled down in order that the collar will fit snugly at the back and in front.
Step 10A(1):
Coat, Wool’s fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(a) Width- It must be carefully observed that the coat is sufficiently large across the chest and shoulders to permit the free use of the arms without discomfort.
Coat, Wool’s fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(a) Width-The coat must have sufficient size across the hips to prevent the event in the back from spreading open while the individual is standing naturally.
Step 10B
Coat, Wool’s fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(b) Length- The length of the coat should not be shorter than the crotch line of the wearer. It should not be longer than 1 ½ inches below the crotch line.
Step 10C
Coat, Wool’s fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(c) Length of sleeve- The length of the sleeves may vary from 3 ½ to 4 ½ inches from the end of the thumb.
Step 11
The measurements for the Overcoat are done as follows:
- The individual to be fitted should stand in a natural manner while his chest is measured with a tape well up under the arms across the largest part of the chest. Approximately 1 inch over the snug measurement should be allowed. The length of coat: short, regular, long, or extra long required for the induvial being fitted should be selected according to his height.
Generally:
-Under ~5’6”: Short
-Between ~5’6”-6”-Regular
-Over 6”: Long
Step 12
The overcoat should be tried on over the woolen underwear, woolen shirt, and woolen coat. The overcoat should be tried on and should be buttoned in front and pulled down in order that the collar will fit snugly at the back and in front.
"Fort Belvoir, Va. Sept 1942. Issuing an overcoat to George Camblair at the clothing warehouse."
Step 13A
The Overcoat’s fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(a) Width- There should be sufficient room across the shoulders and chest to permit free use of the arms without discomfort. The width of the overcoat through the waistline and across the hips should be sufficient to permit comfort and present a neat appearance.
Step 13B
The Overcoat’s fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(b) Length- The length of the overcoat should be from 14 to 16 inches from the floor and should be checked carefully with a yardstick.
Step 13C
The Overcoat’s fit is appraised in 3 locations:
(c) Length of Sleeve- The Sleeves should be worn approximately 3 ½ inches from the end of the thumb. The sleeve of the overcoat must not be shorter than the sleeves of the coat, wool, being worn.
Final
With your uniform properly fitted now you are ready to either hit the town or hit the beach.